Perhaps the only truly perfect combat instrument ever created; A seamless extension of your arm with no moving parts and little maintenance needed. It served us well for thousands of years and swords have never misfired or ran out of ammunition.
Browse our full selection of swords.
Battle Ready Swords
Full tang and tempered these swords are the real deal
Longswords, broadswords and two handed war swords. These are the biggest swords that we offer.
The Esterlina line are premium fully functional battle ready swords.
These are not historical replicas but they are still pretty cool.
These swords are used with one or two hands. Longer than a typical battle
Katanas and Asian Swords
Katanas, samurai swords and other Asian swords.
Foam swords used for Live Action Role Play(LARP) or for just having fun.
An elegant weapon from a more civilized time.
Medieval and European
These are the classical swords of medieval Europe.
Military replica swords including Civil War era swords.
Pirate swords, cutlasses and other curved swords.
The most sleek and civilized of all swords.
Roman & Greek Swords
Whether you're standing shoulder to shoulder on the beaches of Troy or facing down a Thracian gladiator in Rome, these are the weapons you would have used.
All of our curved swords including scimitars, falchions and sabers.
Scottish & Irish Swords
Gaelic swords including Scottish and Irish.
Short swords were especially effective for in close fighting.
Stage Combat and Theatrical Reenactment
These swords have blunted tips and thicker edges and are better suited for sword on sword contact.
Save us from the fury of the Northmen.
These swords can be sub-categorized into hand-and-a-half swords/bastard swords and two handed swords. Swords of this nature
would have been a Knight's primary weapon on the battle field because of their strength, reach, and armor-splitting weight.
These weapons were intended to smash and slice through thick armor, so had to be quite heavy and sharp. While the
point of the sword could be used to pierce (and the final killing blow with these swords often was a thrust), this
was primarily a slashing weapon. AS time went on, Swords moved more to a thrusting style: The European "tuck" was
little more than a dull metal blade with a horrendously sharp point. Perfect for finding those hard-to-reach
crannies in armor (or for picking up loose trash after the battle). But thrusting swords like the tuck, though used
in large battles, still aren't what we consider "battle swords." battle swords, to us (and to any real man) are huge,
Read the full article...
About Strongblade Swords
At Strongblade, we sell swords that are made for us, as well as swords made by other manufacturers. Our swords (most of them
start with the prefix SBA-) are all manufactured to our specifications. They are hand forged and crafted almost entirely as
swords have been for thousands of years. In addition to our swords, we are dealers for most major, reliable, sword dealers out
there (so if you don't see something on our site, chances are we can get it for you anyway).
Unlike many other sword vendors, we are very careful about what swords we put on the site. Every sword that we put on our
site is guaranteed to meet quality benchmarks that we set. We're not saying every sword we sell is equal, but every sword
we sell will be of excellent quality for its price.
About Hand Crafted Swords
In this world of robots that make cars, pianos that play themselves and droids that vacuum your house, it's heartwarming to
see a product that is actually made by human hands. Our handcrafted swords are made by humans, for humans (although if you wanted
to give one as a gift to your robot, we wouldn't hold it against you).
Our humans hammer the steel as it has been done for thousands of years. They heat and quench the blades just like blacksmiths
of old. Because of this, each sword (or item) will vary slightly from the next. There will be small discrepancies in each,
discrepancies that would be called minor blemishes had they been made by a machine but are instead marks of authenticity in
About Tempered Swords
Strongblade sells both tempered and non-tempered swords. Both type of swords serve a purpose. Non-tempered swords are good for
costume or very light sparring. Tempered are considered "Battle-Ready" by many people, meaning you can sharpen them to a very
fine edge and do some light cutting with it (or leave it dull and do some light, low-speed sparring with them, assuming you are
fully armored, are wearing eye protection, and have been trained by a professional to do this).
Non-tempered high carbon steel is not likely to break or shatter but it will bend if enough contact is made
(not that this is a huge problem, but you’ll spend a lot of time straightening your sword, much like a competitive
fencer does with his or her foil. And unlike a foil, a thick sword will weaken very quickly after continuous bending and
will probably break down the road). Also if you are looking to put an edge on your sword, high carbon steel in its native
state will not hold a fine edge. High carbon steel tends to be relatively soft which makes it difficult to sharpen.
Tempering is the solution to both of the above problems (easily bent and hard to sharpen, for those of you who can’t keep up).
Tempering is part of a heat treatment process. The first part of the process involves heating and quenching. The blade is heated
to an extremely high temperature, so high that the blade will glow red. It is then cooled quickly by quenching (dipping) into an
oil or water bath. This quenching process alters the metallic structure of the blade making it extremely hard. Unfortunately
along with the added hardness, the blade also becomes very brittle. The hardened metal can hold a very fine edge but because of
its brittleness it can also break very easily.
In order to put ductility (which, to my surprise, means flexibility and has nothing to do with ducks) back into the metal, the
blade must be tempered. In the tempering process the blade is again heated and cooled but this heating and cooling process is
much more gradual than before. The full heat/cool cycle can last several hours. The tempering temperature is also much lower than
the temperature used during the quenching process. When the process is complete the blade is flexible enough to withstand impact
without breaking, but hard enough to hold a sharpened edge.